Post by Irene McCready
Afternoon tea at Port Lympne, Philip Sassoon’s constituency home, seemed to be the perfect birthday treat for one who is an avid follower of the poet Siegfried and the rest of the Sassoon clan. I had been looking forward to this visit for over a year and have to say that the experience was well worth the wait.
Philip Sassoon (1888-1939), a cousin of Siegfried, was constituency MP for Folkestone and Hythe from 1913 until his death. On his election to this, his father’s former seat, he set about building this lovely house in a choice location on the Romney Marshes in Kent. Since he was a fabulously wealthy man, money was no barrier to the construction of this remarkable mansion; consequently, it still holds some of the character of its charismatic builder.
Today, Philip Sassoon is no more than a footnote in history (in fact there are more references to his cousin Siegfried in most history books covering this period), but in his day, he was quite an influential man, serving both General Haig and then Prime Minister David Lloyd George in very quick succession. For many years he was Under Secretary for Air and even had an Air Force Squadron based on his Lympne estate. But his main legacy will be his contribution to the arts, and more pertinently, the building and creation of two very fine houses, Trent Park in Middlesex and Port Lympne.
Built in a Dutch Colonial style by architect Herbert Baker, it is constructed from luscious, rose-coloured brick (recycled from elsewhere) and stands on a small hill overlooking the Marshes; on a clear day there is a view of the English Channel beyond. Originally, over 100 rooms, it now boasts only eight hotel suites, plus dining and conference facilities. The atmosphere and tone of the mansion very much reflects the interests of the last owner, gaming entrepreneur and zoo keeper John Aspinall (of Lord Lucan fame). He created a wildlife park in the 1970s which remains a very popular attraction. Few of Sir Philip’s touches are still in existence, but what survives is simultaneously vibrant and poignant.
On the day of our visit my companion and I were fortunate to meet another Philip Sassoon buff whose precise role, and indeed name, I failed to establish, but he claimed to be both staff and volunteer. He was eager to show us the vestibule as we had spoken of Rex Whistler in our initial discussion. I was not disappointed. It contained the original silk ceiling hanging and the mural, painted in an Arcadian style, depicting the life of Philip, seeming as fresh as the day it was completed. It was exciting to note that Siegfried also saw this painted, when he was an invited guest for the first and only time shortly before his marriage to Hester. Rex was then painting the finishing touches. He was paid £800 for the job, which, according to our guide, Rex thought was too little for the amount of work involved. But I suspect he did not factor-in all those days and weeks enjoying the good food, excellent wine and the general opulence of life at Port Lympne.
What was formerly the dinning room, now the lounge and bar, was next on our agenda. It is very simply furnished with colonial-style cane armchairs and a large rug to highlight the beautiful parquet floor. This room is the home of the Glyn Philpot frieze which depicts spear- and shield-brandishing African warriors. Apparently, one guest had complained about the frieze, claiming that it was racist and, in truth, I could see the point being made, but, as the painting is part of the Grade 2 listing, little can be done to change it.
The Moorish terrace is situated on a half-landing on the main staircase. Open to the sky, it is made of exquisite pink marble and looks straight out of a Tale of the Arabian Nights, which I can imagine was the effect that Philip Sassoon was trying to create all those years ago. The hotel have taken care to decorate it with climbers and other exotic pot plants which enhance the beauty of the architecture.
Other rooms on the ground floor were dedicated to a conference/marriage suite, and furnished in a modern style. Apart from the casement windows, there is little evidence to denote the period of the house. In the largest room there is an oversized monkey and palm tree painted on one wall.
The “Jungle Book” approach was carried forward to the salon where afternoon tea was served. The ceiling and every scrap of wall was dedicated to this theme of wildlife. Lions, tigers, monkeys; all were present, watching us take tea, and, peering through abundant foliage, was the head of John Aspinall, the founder of the wildlife park.
The true irony of the room is the fact that beneath all of that garish fresco lies an authentic Philip Sassoon contribution to the architecture. There were two huge windows letting in the gorgeous afternoon light and over each was a canopy of intricate, filigree plaster work. But unfortunately, the subtlety of this “Sultan’s Palace” effect has been totally subsumed by the greenery.
Only by picking our way though the worn and broken York stone paving were we able to admire the garden (I felt that these could have been sympathetically restored to ensure the safety of the guests). Sitting in the sun, the vista over the Romney Marshes was stunning, but alas, no French coastline was visible. The enjoyment of a fantasy of Siegfried musing in the same spot, smoking his pipe, was interrupted by the reappearance of our guide who had promised us a visit to the library.
The tiny, octagonal library with its oak panels and bookshelves seemed to be the only place where Philip Sassoon was acknowledged; for there at the door, on a stand, was a photograph of him with the Heads of State participating in the peace conference of 1919. This had been hailed as a great success on a social level but achieved very little towards the peace process. This room was termed the small library in its heyday - as there was a much larger one elsewhere - where guests could experience a quiet break. This practice continues today.
The visit ended with a final talk about the famous people who had enjoyed the luxurious surroundings of Port Lympne and the generosity of its owner. Some of the suites are named after these guests. Winston Churchill, Charlie Chaplin and of course Rex Whistler. These names help keep alive Philip’s memory. But it is John Aspinall, who made his fortune via the gaming tables and other, less-savoury ventures, who emerges the winner in the popularity stakes. His introduction of a game park was a brilliant idea; a real money spinner but also enjoyed by serious conservationists and the general public alike.
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