Tuesday 22 November 2022

Return to Ypres -12 years on

In 2010 the SSF ran a very successful coach trip to Ypres and the Western Front, one of the most ambitious things we've undertaken. I've revisited some of the sites in intervening years, in the company of Vivien Whelpton, and have recently been on another trip, which brought back some good memories.

Those who were also with us in 2014, when we ventured out to the battlefields on the first of the "Poets of the Great War" tours run by Battle Honours, will recall our visit to La Peylouse, the lovely chateau owned by the charming Sassoon enthusiast Didier Rousseau, who during the centenary period ran an exhibition about Sassoon and his contemporaries. On the first morning of this year's tour, Didier welcomed us into "La Poudriere", the 17th century ammunition store that was saved from demolition and preserved for posterity by him and his late wife Luce, some years ago.  La Poudriere now operates as a kind of arts centre, and here we were treated to drinks while Clive gave an overview of the Manoir's First World War history as a training school set up by Douglas Haig and later an HQ for the Portuguese contingent. Viv gave an overview of Siegfried Sassoon and his connections with the area. Unfortunately, our hectic schedule combined with heavy rain caused our visit to be shorter than we would have liked.

Our 2010 trippers will also remember Jack Sturiano, who masterminded that ambitious tour of Ypres and the surrounding area for us. Jack still lives in Ypres and a group of us met up with him in the evening for a pizza and a drink before going on to the nightly commemoration at the Menin Gate. He sends his good wishes to all SSF members. (Unfortunately I forgot to take a photo.)

One place we did not go in 2010 was the small town of Poperinge, best known in First World War history as being a place where executions by firing squad were carried out, but also for something much more pleasant - Talbot House, where Toc H was launched, offering a haven for British soldiers in the region. For some years, the town was plagued with extensive building work and road works, which made it almost impossible to park a coach. Now the traffic problems have eased, and for the first time I was able to see inside Talbot House. 

Readers of Siegfried's Journal will recall that, during lockdown, Talbot House was threatened with closure. We featured the old house on the cover of one issue and included a message from Simon Louagie, the manager, appealing for financial support. The appeal was a success and, having now actually visited, I consider that this was a very worthwhile cause. We happened to visit on a beautiful September day and were able to enjoy the gardens and even a "proper" cup of tea, complete with scone. I use the singular because there was only one scone left at the time - but it was easily big enough for me and my husband to share.

Who should have been in the garden, going over future plans for the museum on his laptop with one of the volunteers, but Simon Louagie, and we chatted with both of them about the next steps. I do wish that it was possible to do something about that final set of steps up to the chapel, as I really did fear I would break my neck - and of course it would be impossible for anyone with mobility problems to reach it and imbibe the atmosphere - but they can at least enjoy the museum, in a modern building behind the original house, where hundreds of artefacts are laid out for the public to view. I hope to return one day.